TURKEY’S CULINARY JEWEL: GAZIANTEP & ENVIRONS

  September 19 - September 30, 2002

Situated on the western edge of the Euphrates River plain in southeast Turkey, the historic region of Gaziantep and its environs offers a remarkable cuisine - one that reflects its proximity to the ancient spice trade routes and that shares many culinary markings with its Arabic neighbors.  Aromatic red pepper pastes ranging from mild to piquant, fragrant olive oils, pistachio, bulgur wheat, chickpeas, pomegranate molasses and yogurt - all are staples in home kitchens that produce such memorable dishes as muhammara, a red pepper and walnut spread flavored with cumin and pomegranate molasses;  lentil and bulgur wheat pilav; stews of lamb, chickpea and bulgur wheat koftes;  red lentil patties seasoned with fresh herbs, spices and tomato and pepper pastes - just a few examples of the vast repertoire of the  home cook.  Street cuisine is another matter. Here, the ‘grill’ prevails.  In wood-fired ovens, mouth-watering kebabs, koftes, fruits and vegetables are grilled to perfection and served with delicious flat bread and ayran, a nourishing yogurt drink - an extraordinary dining experience. 

This gratifying journey offers a variety of rich culinary experiences – cooking sessions with the region’s best home cooks, dining with local families in their homes, market tours along with outings to observe the pistachio and red pepper harvests and the production of the region’s celebrated red pepper paste.  We venture beyond Gaziantep to Sanli Urfa and Antakya (the ancient Antioch)--both destinations steeped in history and presenting diverse food ways.   And to enhance our perspective, we make a very special expedition to the banks of the    legendary Euphrates River, the heart of this culinary and cultural landscape.

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 Our travels begin in Istanbul.  With the architectural wonders of the Old City as our backdrop we explore the bountiful food and spice markets of Tahtakale and the Spice Bazaar, then cross the Golden Horn to wander through the atmospheric quarter of Beyoglu, its passages reminiscent of the city at the turn of the 20^th century.  We sample a variety of street food, visit a weekly fruit and vegetable market, meet with local food professionals and dine in a range of establishments that showcase some of the best traditional and regional food found in the city today.

From Istanbul we journey to Gaziantep, our base for most of our stay in the southeast.  Here local food writer and researcher Filiz Hosukoglu will join us on our excursions in her city.  Together we will explore the market area with its colorful collection of spice and food shops and artisan workshops and dine in the city’s finest kebab restaurant.  We will also have an opportunity to observe the preparations of the baklava renowned throughout Turkey.  Dinner in private homes is planned for one evening in addition to cooking sessions with Gaziantep’s winning home cooks. 

Traveling east from Gaziantep we journey through a fertile landscape of pistachio groves and grape vines en route to the Euphrates River, an area in great transition which has profoundly affected villagers and artifacts alike.  Here on the banks of the river, we visit the important excavations at the ancient site of  Zeugma which have dominated the international news recently and explore a nearby village, whose residents are striving to maintain their local customs.

Continuing east we arrive in Sanli Urfa, a city of great religious and historical importance.  Here our activities include a walking tour through the exotic bazaar and caravansary plus visits to the nearby Islamic pilgrimage sites.  We travel to the ancient city of Antioch, known in modern times as Antakya (also referred to as Hatay).  Located near the Syrian border and reflecting an Arabic influence in culture and language, this inviting town is home to a world-renowned collection of Roman floor mosaics.  After visiting the Mosaic Museum we embark on a fascinating exploration of the old city and bazaar with opportunities to view and sample local foodstuffs.  We dine at a local establishment that is committed to preserving the local culinary traditions of the region.

On our last night of the tour back in Gaziantep, we celebrate with a gathering of residents who will share with us their favorite local dishes.

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Culinary Expeditions in Turkey is owned and operated by Kathleen O’Neill, who resides most of the year in Turkey, where she is engaged in researching local food traditions.  On this special expedition to the southeast of Turkey, she is joined by friend Filiz Hosukoglu, a Gaziantep resident, food writer and fellow food researcher.

For tour costs and a complete itinerary, contact:  info@turkishfoodandtravel.com.

We also specialize in private food-focused tours of Turkey.  If you desire your own private excursion in Turkey, don’t hesitate to contact us.